Tag Archives: GIA

The most important thing in buying a diamond engagement ring -TRUST.

In everything in life, whether it be a visit to the Doctor or Dentist, or a significant purchase of one thing or another, we often face the dilemma of whether the service provider or seller is looking out for himself/herself or for the patient/customer in making their recommendation(s) for the fulfillment of the patient’s/customer’s needs or desires. This is only natural in that the seller is most often concerned with getting well compensated for his/her services while the patient/consumer is motivated by the quality of the provided service or product and receiving such service/product at a “fair” price.

I recently had an experience with regard to a needed plaster repair in my beautiful older home. The fast talking great salesman who came to me through an internet referral service quoted me $1750.00 for a job that I knew he was not going to correctly repair – since he really had no idea how to do it right! In the end, a trustworthy old timer with lots of experience in plaster repair did a remarkable job on the repair for the cost of $360.00!!

So . . . you ask, “What the heck does any of this have to do with the purchase of a diamond engagement ring?” The answer should be somewhat obvious. You need to deal with someone who has the required experience and understanding of your needs as well as of the industry and the product – in this case, a diamond.

You also need to navigate through the minefield of fast talking salespeople (Beware of the Internet!!) and find someone who you feel comfortable dealing with in terms of their personality and their knowledge and their reputation for trust and integrity. Granted, this is not an easy task!

But there are many jewelry professionals whose mission in their work is to provide you with the necessary information, and more importantly, the right advice – to assist you in making the right educated choice in your selection of the “right” engagement diamond and/or diamond engagement ring. The most important thing to remember during this process is that you should not be looking for the best price. Price is not the same as “value” – and those who think otherwise will almost always buy an inferior (read: ugly!) diamond!

When you find such a person, I urge you to give him the level of respect and trust that he deserves. In the end, that trust and respect will serve you well.

The end result should be an experience that is mutually beneficial to both sides of the transaction. The buyer will be grateful for the knowledge and advice that has been obtained. The seller, or jewelry professional, will be happy that he has provided you with something that will be worn and appreciated and admired for many years to come!!

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This above comment – “the “right” diamond engagement ring” – is even more important than one might initially think!!

A diamond is just a diamond – beautiful as it may be. A diamond engagement ring, on the other hand, is a very significant piece of jewelry that is, in addition to symbolizing that the wearer is “engaged” or “married”, a very personal statement of one’s style and/or taste and personality. It is a work of jewelry art that will be worn for many years and will be appreciated by the wearer as well as many friends, family members, associates and many others.

Just as in the process of purchasing a loose diamond, it is essential to deal with a knowledgeable and experienced and trustworthy jewelry professional in turning a diamond into the finished engagement ring.

Some diamond shapes or qualities work well in certain styles of settings and not so much in other styles. While you may have a general idea of where you would like to end up in terms of an engagement ring style, I urge you – as in the diamond buying process itself – to find that trusted jewelry professional whose knowledge of materials, diamond shapes and qualities and cuts, and sense of style will assist you in ending up with something that will be beautiful to you as well as to everyone else!

Find someone who you can and will trust. Sometimes it takes a leap of faith. But it is the most aspect of getting to where you want to be. This is true regardless of the fact that you may be purchasing a $1,000.00 or a $50,000.00 diamond ring!!

Why Buy a GIA Certified Diamond?

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If there is any one single bit of advice that I would give any prospective diamond buyer, it is this: “Whatever you buy, make sure that your diamond is GIA certified and comes with a GIA report.”

Some might think that a GIA certified diamond is more expensive than any other alternative. This is not true. The difference in pricing between a non-GIA diamond and a GIA certified diamond is the difference between fact and fiction . . between honesty and lies.

As one who has been involved in the diamond import and wholesale business for 40+ years, I know from experience that 99% of all non-GIA certified diamonds are sold with bogus grades. More importantly, the prices for these diamonds often exceed the value of the same diamond if such diamond was accurately graded to its true GIA grade.

A GIA grading report contains a lot of vital information and specifications about a diamond. There are many important specifications with regard to a diamond that are contained within the GIA report. The most familiar of these specifications are the “carat weight” and “color” and “clarity” and “cut” of the diamond.

The diamond consumer must understand that any single diamond grade – whether it be the color or clarity or cut of degree of fluorescence can effect the value of a diamond by more than 10%. Multiple grade differences may effect the price of a diamond by 50% or more.

I have seen a diamond with a grading report issued by a different laboratory – EGL, which was actually worth 45% LESS than the value of what the diamond was worth if it had been sold according to it’s real and accurate grades according to GIA standards. The EGL certificate stated that the diamond was a “G/VS2” Ideal Cut diamond with faint fluorescence. The diamond was submitted to GIA and was graded “I/SI1” with a VG Cut and Strong Fluorescence.

The story above is not unusual. It is typical. The point is that the diamond was worth 55% of what the consumer thought they were buying!

So you may ask, “So, what difference does it really make if I buy a non-GIA diamond as long as get a diamond that is bigger than I could have gotten had I purchased a diamond with. GIA report?”

The answer is simple. It is the difference between truth and honesty vs fiction and lies. It is the difference between quality and junk. It is the difference between something that is valuable and something that is not.

It is the difference between a Porsche and a Hyundai that someone tells you is a Porsche! It is the difference between finding out that the 2500 square feet home you were offered is only 1800 square feet! It is the difference between paying a for price for something that is valuable and being fooled when making one of the most important purchases that you will make in your life.

A diamond represents one of the most significant purchases that you will make in your life. Do it right. Insist on a diamond that has a GIA certification report.

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NOTE: This blog post concerns a diamond purchased for an engagement ring. Most diamond jewelry containing smaller diamonds are almost never made with certified diamonds as small diamond (referred to as “melee”) are too small to be certified or graded by a laboratory.

For more information on GIA certification, see my blog post . . . “What is a GIA Certified Diamond”.

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Lowest price – GIA certified diamonds.

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Lowest Price – GIA Diamonds.

Many internet shoppers are under the mistaken belief that buying a GIA certified diamond on the internet is similar to purchasing a flat screen TV. Simple, You just find the model number that you want. Then you go to the internet and you buy it for less.

In the case of a diamond, one might figure out the size, the shape and the GIA parameters that they want. Let’s say in this case, a 2.00 carat round diamond, GIA “H” color, “SI1” clarity. Simple. We go to the internet and buy it at the lowest price.

Stop right there.

A diamond is not a flat screen TV. The GIA diamond certification report is not the same as a model number. The specifications of a TV are identical. There are thousands if not millions of the same TV made to factory specifications. Diamonds are different. A diamond is a creation of nature. Each one is unique. A GIA grading report attempts to describe a diamond like I may attempt to describe a beautiful woman. It is very hard to do without seeing the woman – or the diamond.

The point of this is that diamonds with similar specifications on a GIA grading report are not similar diamonds. There can be (and usually are) significant pricing differentials between two diamonds with similar GIA grading reports. And more importantly, one diamond will be significantly more beautiful than the lesser priced diamond.

Pictured below are six diamonds listed for sale on a leading internet diamond site. Each of the six diamonds weighs approximately 2.00 carats (Actual weights range from 2.01 to 2.09 carats). Each of the diamonds is graded by GIA as “H” color, “SI1” clarity. The prices for these diamonds ranges from $13,247.00 to $26,131.00. YES! One diamond is 50% “cheaper” than another. Inversely, one diamond is 100% more than the other!

And you are on the internet in search of the best price. Or is it the lowest price? Best price for what? Lowest price for what?

As a diamond merchant with more than 40 years of experience (and two generations before me!), I understand what a diamond is. It is about something beautiful. Beauty is about the brilliance and sparkle and scintillation. Low price is about a price point.

In recent years there has been a divergence within the diamond industry – sort of a “fork in the road”. There are many diamond companies that are marketing diamonds specifically for the internet. The diamonds that they sell via the internet are inferior to those that are sold in the traditional manner – to be sold via retail jewelry stores. It is the difference between the beautiful GIA H/SI1 diamond and that of the diamond that is marketed solely based on “price-point” for the internet buyer who believes he has figured out the world.

The difference is, in the “old” days, people looked at diamonds in a jewelry store with their eyes and a jewelers magnifying loupe. They were truly buying a diamond and not just a diamond grading report!.

Take a look at the info for the six diamonds featured below. These are just a random sample of different price ranges that I found.

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When looking at each of the diamonds described above, one must recognize that the pictures are fake and are all identical. These photos are not representative of the diamond in any way and, in fact, give the illusion that the diamonds are gem quality which they are not!

With regard to the diamonds listed above I know for a fact that it is not possible to purchase a “nice” 2 carat round diamond with these GIA specifications on the wholesale market within the price of the first three listings.

If I was buying a diamond for my wholesale business it would most likely be one of the three more expensive diamonds. I believe that a diamond is supposed to be something beautiful. These diamonds may be beautiful diamonds – although, even with the info provided on the GIA report, it is still necessary to SEE the diamond. The listed specifications of these diamonds provides no information with regard to the nature and location of the inclusions and, in reality, provides little insight to the overall beauty of the diamond.

One thing that I do know is that there are reasons why the cheap diamonds are cheap. It may be the make. It may be the type and location of the inclusion. Perhaps there is a color tinge. Perhaps there is a “cloud”. There are many factors that effects the overall sparkle and scintillation that makes a diamond special!

Low price is just that. It is low price. It is not a factor of value. Value, on the other hand, is a reasonable price for a Renoir – despite the fact that it may be tens of millions of dollars.

Neil Reiff

The Right Diamond at the Right Price.

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Since 1994, N D Reiff Company has used the tagline “The Right Diamond at the Right Price” in many of our promotional materials – whether it be a business card or in industry advertising materials.

To me, this is not just a tagline for advertising purposes. It reflects a commitment in each and every unique diamond that I acquire and that I offer to the jewelry trade/consumer.

This commitment to “The Right Diamond at the Right Price” is more significant today than at any time over the past 25 years. This is because the industry is flooded with ugly diamonds.

The issue of ugly diamonds has many dimensions. The most common issues are as follows:

1.) Over-Graded GIA Reports. This is particularly obvious within the “SI” (Sightly Imperfect) categories where the majority of diamonds contain black carbon or other large inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. It is also a factor in many “VS” graded diamonds. A diamond with a black inclusion or a major inclusion may be valued at up to 15% – 40% less than a diamond of the same GIA grade without such an inclusion. The pricing differential is dependent upon the size and placement of the carbon inclusion. A diamond with a black carbon inclusion is almost always not the right diamond.

2.) Milky Diamonds. These are diamonds that are “cloudy” and “milky”. Many will say that the diamond looks “sleepy”. Though the diamond may be represented by a somewhat “clean plot” on the GIA report, a milky or cloudy diamond will be severely lacking in luster and brilliance – the characteristic for which a diamond is valued. This is usually not apparent by looking at the GIA report. Milky diamonds will usually be priced at 20% -50% less than a similar graded diamond that is not “cloudy” or “milky”. A milky diamond is never the right diamond.

3.) Tinge Diamonds. Some diamonds may exhibit a gray or green or brown color tinge. While this is sometimes indicated on the GIA grading report it is most often not noted on the GIA report. Diamonds that have a color tinge exhibit shades of color beyond the normal scope of GIA color grading which evaluates the overall whiteness of a diamond in terms of gradations of yellow. For example, a diamond may be a “H” color in terms of the GIA grading scale but may exhibit a shade of grayish or greenish or brownish tint. This color tinge greatly effects the overall brilliance and lustre of a diamond. Such diamonds may be 20% to 50% less than a diamond that does not exhibit a color tinge. A tinge diamond is never the right diamond.

4.) Fluorescent Diamonds. Fluorescence is perhaps the most misunderstood designation on a GIA grading report. In most cases, faint or medium fluorescence will not impact the overall beauty of a diamond but will have some impact on pricing. The designation of Strong or Very Strong fluorescence will, in many cases, effect the lustre and brilliance of a diamond and should will have a significant impact on the price of a diamond usually in the range of 15% to 35%. A fluorescent diamond must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis and should be avoided in cases where it effects the lustre and brilliance.

5.) Cut – Round Diamond. There is perhaps no other GIA grade characteristic that is as misunderstood at the Cut grade. It is my honest opinion that there is very little difference between the GIA cut grades of Excellent and Very Good. For this reason the price differential between these two grades is minimal. There is, however, a significant difference in beauty and pricing for a diamond that is grade as good (or fair or poor). This may be in the overall cut grade or in the polish or symmetry characteristics noted on the report. A good cut grade may be 10% to 40% less than a similar diamond that is Excellent. A cut grade that is below Very Good cut should be avoided in most cases.

6.) Cut – Fancy Shape Diamonds. There is nothing more important to the beauty of a fancy shape diamond than the cut. There is also nothing more significant to the pricing of a fancy shape diamond than its cut. Many consumers are of the mistaken belief that the polish and symmetry attributes that are noted on a GIA grading report are an indication of the overall cut and appearance of a fancy shape diamond. This is absolutely a fallacy. The cut has more to do with the beauty of a fancy shape diamond than anything else. A poorly cut fancy shape diamond may be 50% less expensive than a beautifully cut fancy shape diamond.

7.) Proportion Ratio. This issue of proportion ratios is particularly significant with regard to fancy shape diamonds. It is applicable to all fancy shapes as it refers to proportion ratios. These ratios affect the overall dimensions of the diamond as well as the optimal light refraction of a fancy shape diamond. For instance, the ideal proportion ratio of an Oval diamond is 1.35 to 1.45. A diamond that is 1.30 or 1.50 is still a “nice” diamond in most cases although the price of such a diamond should be slightly less expensive. With regard to a diamond that is significantly outside of the preferred ratio, the Rapaport Diamond Report notes this comment with regard to fancy shape diamonds: “Prices for fancy shapes are highly dependent on the cut (meaning proportions, ratios, etc.). . . Off-make, poorly cut fancies often trade at large (price reductions) and are (not desirable) .” A poorly proportioned diamond is never the right diamond.

8.) Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera . . . There are many other issues that affect the beauty and the price of a diamond. Many of these issues go beyond the specifications or attributes noted on a GIA grading report. Every diamond is a unique creation of nature as well as the diamond cutting process. Some diamonds just have a “WOW” factor and others do not. A “WOW” diamond is always more beautiful and more expensive than a diamond that is lacking in brilliance and scintillation and fire.

There is not a day that goes by in my office in which my discussions with retail jewelry store managers/owners/diamond sellers do not touch upon the relationships of diamond qualities and diamond prices. These conversations usually go three different ways:

For instance, today a retail jeweler was in my office looking for a diamond for his consumer customer who previously purchased a diamond from another retailer. His customer wants to upgrade the previously purchased diamond because it has “no life and no brilliance”.

I had the opportunity to see the diamond and I agree with the customer. The customer purchased a “Milky” diamond and now has regret. Unfortunately the customer will now be paying more money to have a “nice” diamond. Even worse, not only is the customer purchasing a new diamond in place of their earlier mis-taken purchase, the customer is now stuck with the diamond that was previously purchased as the disreputable retailer will not allow their customer to “upgrade” the diamond!

An additional conversation that I often have with diamond retailers goes like this:
“What is more salable in your store?. . . Low price OR a nice diamond??”.

To be perfectly honest with the reader (You), the typical answer to this question depends on the respect and integrity of the person that I ask. The diamond seller/retailer who is highly regarded whether on Yelp! or by community reputation will almost universally tell me that when given a choice and actually viewing diamonds, the buyer will choose the nicer and more expensive diamond. Unfortunately, many mass market sellers tend to believe that low price is more important than quality.

The third conversation deals with the impact of the Internet on the diamond business. Sure, the internet has impacted the diamond business at every level of the industry. Many people believe in Internet nirvana and believe that there is no reason to leave their computer screens. These buyers never take the time to understand that a diamond can truly be something that is the essence of natural beauty. These buyers look to the internet in which people are in search of lowest price – without understanding the meaning of value!

As one who has been art of the “diamond trade” for a lifetime, I understand that my industry serves many different “markets’ within the market.

On one hand there are diamond sellers/retailers/consumers who only believe in selling/buying cheap diamonds. Whether this is because selling cheap (ugly) diamonds allows them to make a larger profit or because they believe that their clientele only understands low price, it is these such buyers who end up in the first category which I have described above.

On the other hand, the bottom line is this: The diamond buyer should buy “The Right Diamond at the Right Price”.

So, a diamond consumer will ask: “How do I know if it is the right diamond?”.
To that question I do not have an easy answer.

But I do know that it is my mission and my commitment to make “The Right Diamond at the Right Price” available to the market.

The Right Diamond at the Right Price.

Neil Reiff

The Truth about Blue Nile and Internet Diamond Companies.

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There is no doubt within the jewelry industry that online sellers such as Blue Nile have revolutionized the ways that many consumers purchase their engagement diamond. Blue Nile, as well as a multitude of other online sellers, offers a virtual database of diamonds to internet shoppers at prices that were once considered to be below traditional retail prices. I add the phrase “once considered” in the previous statement in an acknowledgement to the shifts in pricing structure that have transpired through the retail jewelry landscape as a result of Blue Nile and other internet sellers.

The problem with Blue Nile and other internet diamond sellers is the process itself.

Internet diamond companies, unlike traditional retail jewelers, have no eyes-on knowledge of any diamond that they sell. These companies are simply online brokers between diamond wholesalers and consumers. No one in the “process” between Blue Nile and the ultimate diamond consumer has any real knowledge of what the diamond looks like.

There are two inherent deficiencies in buying a diamond in this manner.

Firstly, the process itself is based on the diamond grading report – usually a GIA report. It is wrong to assume that a GIA diamond grading report conveys the most important aspect of what a diamond is all about – what the diamond really looks like. In reality, this is a very significant misperception amongst diamond buying consumers.

To illustrate my point, here are two actual un-retouched photos of two different diamonds:

The diamond below is typical of what the internet shopper buys based on the GIA report. This diamond is a 1.70 carat Cushion Cut.

The GIA report looks great as this diamond meets the proper depth and table proportions. Additionally, it is graded by GIA as “Excellent” Polish and “Excellent” Symmetry.

Despite these “paper” qualities, the diamond is severely lacking the “fire” and “brilliance”and”scintillation” that makes a diamond beautiful. This diamond is actually dead and dark in the center.

The diamond pictured on the right is a 1.72 carat Cushion Cut diamond in which the depth and table proportions are also within the “proper” range. This diamond has a Symmetry grade of “Good” and a Polish grade of “Excellent”.

Though it is somewhat difficult to tell in the two photos, I can assure you that this diamond is much more beautiful than the other. The “faceting” of this diamond creates much more “life” and “brilliance” and “scintillation”. This diamond appears much whiter and brighter than the other diamond despite the fact that is graded as “I” color and the diamond above is graded as “G” color.

in this example, I guarantee you that the lower graded diamond is much nicer and more beautiful than the better graded diamond. I know this for a fact. I have seen both of these diamonds with my eyes. It is why I am writing this article.

A GIA certificate does not describe the beauty of a diamond on even what a diamond looks like to the human eye. The GIA certificate is essentially a document of scientific characteristics and terminology that measure minute differences in gradations that, in most cases, are beyond the limitations of what a consumer using his/her human eyes can ascertain without proper conditions and equipment.

While it is true that a “D / Flawless” diamond will undoubtedly be more beautiful than a “M / I2” diamond, It is often the case that a diamond of a lesser grade in terms of it’s GIA grading may be as beautiful or perhaps more beautiful than a diamond that has a “better” GIA grade. This is particularly true in the case of fancy shape diamonds where the color and clarity grades have little significance to the overall appearance of the diamond.

The second deficiency of the online buying process is that the internet consumer is often searching for the lowest price as opposed to understanding that a diamond is supposed to be about the beauty and scintillation of something that is extraordinary and exceptional.

Whether searching Blue Nile or another online diamond site, without the ability to see and understand the subtle differentiations that make one diamond more magnificent than another diamond, it is easy to fall into the trap of searching only for low price with no understanding that “Value” is something different from low price.

Buying a diamond simply based on lowest price is similar to buying a $5.99 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon! This is not to say that one must pay $50.00 or $150.00 for a bottle of wine. I do know, from experience, that there are very good bottles of wine that can be purchased for $15.00 to $25.00. I also know that the $5.99 are, for the most part, going to taste bad and will not be enjoyed nearly as much!

In my wholesale business I often ask this question to retail jewelry store operators: “What sells better in your store? . . The low price diamond? . . Or the nice diamond?” The answer is almost universally “The nicer diamond!”. I agree with this answer.

I know from experience that a diamond consumer – when given the opportunity to learn about diamonds and see diamonds with his/her eyes – will almost never purchase the lowest price diamond and will, in many cases, choose the most expensive diamond!

Getting back to the subject title of this post, I do not have a problem with Blue Nile or other internet diamond sites. Honestly, I was a supplier to the company that grew to be Blue Nile. I have also supplied James Allen and other internet diamond companies.

On the subject of internet diamond companies, I have a story that my mind will never let me forget. I was in the process of “getting into” an internet diamond company when the person on the operating end of the internet business asked me the following question: “How good are you at playing the game?” I knew what he meant but I asked him to clarify. He made it clear to me that the internet shopper only looks at the first page or two of diamond data. These are the diamonds that are the lowest price diamonds.

He and I both understood that the “game” was all about giving these buyers diamonds with “issues” that make them inexpensive. With a wink and a nod, the conversation was an affirmation that the internet shopper does not understand any more than that of low price and that the idea was to give such a shopper what they are looking for.

Whether it is Blue Nile or any other internet site, a consumer must understand that Blue Nile is simply providing a list of diamonds and diamond data that the consumer will never fully understand. The consumer must understand that Blue Nile is simply an intermediary web operation company that, in most cases, doesn’t know or care what any particular diamond looks like. They simply showcase a database of diamonds, collect your money and then arrange for the diamond to be shipped to you. Their interest is in making an additional internet sale and not in making sure that the consumer/buyer is acquiring a beautiful diamond.

It is possible to buy a beautiful diamond from Blue Nile or any other web diamond seller. Most importantly, the consumer should question why similarly graded diamonds on Blue Nile are priced 20% or 30% or more than 50% higher others of the same GIA grade. After all, it is the same seller who is selling the diamonds! The consumer must understand that low price usually means a diamond that is not as beautiful as another diamond – and, in some cases, a diamond that is not beautiful at all.

Perhaps you are happy drinking that $5.99 bottle of wine! Or perhaps you understand that low prices are just that and there are reasons why the price is low.

I offer these two bits of advice. Go to a jewelry store and see what I am talking about. Buy with your eyes and not with your mouse. And if you insist on buying with your mouse, understand that low price usually means a trade-off in terms of beauty. Understand that “value” is a matter of quality and beauty in relation to price.

The purchase of a diamond is one of the most significant purchases of a lifetime – and one that you will enjoy for many years and hopefully a lifetime! Make it the right diamond.

NEIL REIFF

Buying a GIA Fancy Shape Diamond – BUYER BEWARE.

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BUYING A GIA FANCY SHAPE DIAMOND – BUYER BEWARE.

Buying a Fancy Shape diamond – the term used for an Oval, Cushion Cut, Emerald Cut, Princess Cut, and all other non-Round diamond shapes – based solely on the GIA grading report is not well-advised. Though there is much information contained within any grading report, none of this information conveys any clues as to what any particular fancy shape diamond looks like.

Today I came across two diamonds of similar GIA specifications – the same carat weight, same GIA color grade, and the same GIA clarity grade.

It has been said that a picture is worth a thousand words. So . . here it is in pictures.

This is a actual un-retouched photo of a 3.02 Carat Cushion Cut diamond, GIA “I” color, GIA “VS2″ clarity.

This is an actual un-retouched photo of a 3.06 Carat Cushion Cut diamond, GIA “I” color, GIA “VS2″ clarity.

As you can see, a picture is also worth thousands of dollars! That is the difference between buying something that is beautiful and wasting money on something that is not pretty at all.

In the photos one can easily see that one diamond is beautiful. It is my opinion that the diamond pictured in the above photo is ugly! Live and in person, I assure you that the difference is even more apparent.

From looking at the two certificates, other than the fact that one diamond is more square and the other more rectangular (which has nothing to do with the issue at hand), one would never see the difference in beauty between these two diamonds simply by viewing the GIA certificate.

The simple truth is that one is just a beautiful diamond. The other is not. This is not determinable by looking at the GIA grading report.

To be honest with the reader, the diamond in the above photo is priced approximately 20% less than the diamond in the lower photo. In my opinion, the nicer diamond is worth a 1000% more than the other.

Some might think that saving 20% on a diamond is important. But when one diamond is 1000% more beautiful than another, think about this . . .

What diamond do you want to look at for the rest of your life?

Best Proportions in a Fancy Shape Diamond – Oval, Cushion Cut, Emerald Cut, Pear Shape, Radiant Cut, Princess Cut

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Best Proportions in a Fancy Shape Diamond – Oval, Cushion Cut, Emerald Cut, Pear Shape, Radiant Cut, Princess Cut

The best answer to the question of “What are the best proportions of a fancy shape diamond (the generic term for an Oval, Cushion Cut, Emerald Cut, Pear Shape, Radiant Cut, Princess Cut, among others) is that there is not any best proportion. No laboratory assigns a grade for the proportion of a fancy shape diamond. Moreover, there are no scientific parameters for determining what is or is not the “proper” dimension or ratio of any particular fancy shape diamond

The idea of what is “best” in regard to proportion is somewhat like asking “What should a beautiful woman look like?”. Everyone has there own idea of beauty. It is something that cannot be put on paper with any degree of authority. At best, we can perhaps come up with a “range”. Even then, we must assume that there will always be a multitude of exceptions – whether it be a beautiful woman or a diamond. Some are truly beautiful despite being different from our preconceived notions or parameters.

Perhaps the best guide that we have in determining what are “proper” or “best” proportions is to utilize the “calibrated” sizes and their corresponding ratios of semi-precious stones – such as Amethyst or Blue Topaz. Unlike diamonds that are often cut with regard to the “rough” diamond, semi-precious stones (because of the lack of concern about weight loss) are cut to calibrated sizes that have endured through time – whether it be an Oval, Emerald Cut, Pear Shape, or other shape.

Additionally, my 40+ years of working within the diamond trade has given me a thorough understanding of what dimensions are most desirable and advisable. Even with such an understanding, one must understand that often the proper dimensions or ratio will change depending on the type of mounting that will be utilized in setting the diamond. For instance, it is my experience that a three-stone ring may often look better with a longer Emerald Cut that that which might be in a plain “solitaire” mounting or in a classic “Tapered Baguette” mounting. Furthermore, a “Halo” style may require something different from either of the above mounting styles.

Before continuing, I have one very important bit of advice. It is not advisable to purchase a fancy shape diamond simply based upon dimensions or ratios or any other descriptive element contained on a GIA grading report! I see hundreds of diamonds every week. The information that is contained within the grading report has almost nothing to do with the overall beauty of the diamond! This is something that must be observed with you eyes -preferably live and in person – or at least in a photograph. To make you purchase decision based solely on a paper report is setting yourself up for disappointment.

AND now for my suggested parameters: . . .

OVAL Diamond Proportions: The standard calibrated ratio of Ovals is approximately 1.25 : 1 to 1.40 : 1. In other words, standard calibrated sizes will be 8x6mm or 9x7mm or 10x8mm. In my own experience, this ratio range seems to be the “proper” proportion. While I would not suggest going much below 1.20 : 1 (a slightly shorter and wider dimension), some people may prefer a somewhat longer length : width ratio. I would consider going up to a ratio of 1.50 : 1. This, however, is considered long and must be taken into consideration with many other factors of the diamond.

The 2.02 carat Oval pictured here measures 9.15 x 6.82mm. The ratio is 1.34 :1.

It is important to keep in mind that an Oval diamond – as well as many other fancy shape diamonds – is about the length to width ratio as well as the depth and table specifications.

EMERALD CUT Diamond Proportions: The calibrated sizes for Emerald Cut diamonds is basically the same as that for Ovals. The ratio is approximately 1.25 : 1 to 1.40 :1. Again, this ratio may be somewhat less (like 1.20 : 1), however a longer Emerald Cut may be preferred.

A ratio of 1.55 : 1 is close to the maximum range that I would recommend for anyone who is seeking a “long” Emerald Cut shape. One must be aware, however, that it is somewhat difficult to find a “long” emerald cut that is lively and bright and “well-cut’.

The 2.04 carat Emerald Cut picture here measures 8.26 x 6.05 mm. The ratio is 1.37 : 1.

A ratio of 1.50 : 1 is often referred to as a “credit card” shape as these dimensions are represented by any standard credit card.

ASSCHER CUT Diamond Proportions: An Asscher Cut diamond is basically a square Emerald Cut. A ratio of 1.05 :1 or less is most preferred. It is important top note that GIA will designate Square Emerald Cut within this ratio. A ratio of up to 1.10 : 1 will still appear square when set into a mounting, although this ratio may Asscher Cut Proportion be discounted more than the 1.05 : 1 ratio as the GIA designation will not designate “Square”. The ratios between 1.10 and 1.20 : 1 is the “lost” area between Emerald Cut and Asscher Cut and are usually less desirable and less expensive..

This 3.00 carat Asscher Cut diamond measures 7.83 x 7.62mm. The ratio is 1.03 :1.

CUSHION CUT Diamond Proportions: The Cushion Cut has become the “IT” diamond shape over the past several years – replacing the Princess Cut as the “hot” non-round brilliant shape. I personally think that this is for good reason as a Cushion Cut combines the brilliance of a round diamond with a somewhat square shape. For this reason GIA refers to this shape as a “Cushion Modified Brilliant” or “Cushion Brilliant”.

There is no preferred length by width ratio for a Cushion Cut diamond. Most Cushions are somewhat square in dimensions. Others may be somewhat rectangular, although it is extremely difficult to find a Cushion Cut that is of the rectangular dimensions of an Emerald Cut or Oval.

The 5.00 carat Cushion Cut diamond pictured here measures 10.5 x 9.29mm. The ratio is 1.11 : 1.

Cushion Cut diamonds, more so than any other shape, can be exceptionally beautiful or not pretty at all. It is not a question of dimensions that make a Cushion Cut beautiful; it is a question of the overall shape and faceting – none of which is characterized by any information on a GIA grading report, including the Polish and Symmetry grades. Cushion Cut diamonds must be purchased based on their actual appearance. To purchase a Cushion Cut in any other way will lead to serious disappointment. (For more insight, please see my post Buying a Fancy Shape Diamond – BUYER BEWARE!

PEAR SHAPE Diamond Proportions: Like many fancy shape diamonds, many pear shape diamonds are ugly. A well made and well proportioned Pear Shape can can be spectacular.

My recommended L:W ratio for a Pear Shape diamond is 1.50 :1 to 1.65 : 1. Pear Shape diamonds below 1.45 :1 tend to look squatty.

Pear Shapes, like Ovals, must be looked in terms of the overall shape of the diamond – and not just the ratio. There should be some degree of roundness to the faceting on the sides. For instance, a poorly cut pear shape can look like a shied or an arrow -despite it being with my recommended ratio parameters.

RADIANT CUT Diamond Proportions: A Radiant Cut diamond is, in many ways, similar to a Cushion Cut when it comes to dimensions. There is no clear cut or “proper” length by width ratio. Radiant Cuts can be squarish or they can be somewhat rectangular. Some may be as rectangular as a long Emerald Cut. Most Radiants tend to be squarish; rectangular Radiant Cuts are much more difficult to locate.

The 2.51 Carat Radiant Cut pictured here measures 8.48 x 6.83 mm. The ratio is 1.24 :1. This is a beautiful “rectangular” Radiant Cut.

Like most fancy shape diamonds, the beauty of this pictured Radiant Cut diamond is not the result of any characteristics noted on the grading report. It is simply a matter of beautiful faceting which has nothing to do with the Polish or Symmetry grades as noted on the certificate. For more information on this subject, please see my post Excellent Cut in a Fancy Shape Diamond – Oval, Cushion Cut, Emerald Cut, Pear Shape, Radiant Cut, Princess Cut

MOST IMPORTANTLY, though the focus of this post is about ratios and proportions of fancy shape diamonds, I urge the reader and consumer to shop with your eyes and look at each diamond. The GIA report contains a lot of information about a diamond. It in no way describes what the diamond really looks like. Every diamond is a unique combination of a natural gem as well as the work of a diamond cutter/polisher that must be seen with your eyes to be appreciated.